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Recipes

Scaled to however many of you there are.

Change the headcount and the amounts follow. Salt and spice do not scale in a straight line, and we account for that.

A recipe is how you make a thing: the amounts, the order, the timing and where it goes wrong. The dish pages explain what that thing is — where it comes from, the mechanism behind it, and why skipping one step makes it something else. One stays open in the kitchen; the other is read when you wonder.

Green beans in olive oil

Green beans in olive oil

A classic that cooks in the vegetable’s own water, with none added. The secret is patience and a low flame: the beans sweat, they never boil.

50 min 240 kcal
Semolina halva with milk

Semolina halva with milk

A three-ingredient dessert on the table in twenty-five minutes. Its entire aroma comes from one step: toasting the semolina.

25 min 290 kcal
Butter and cheese pasta

Butter and cheese pasta

Three ingredients. What makes the difference is not an ingredient but the ladle of cooking water you keep.

18 min 480 kcal
Crushed potatoes with yoghurt

Crushed potatoes with yoghurt

Boil, crush, roast. A rough surface means more crust.

45 min 380 kcal
Tahini and honey bowl

Tahini and honey bowl

Two ingredients, five minutes. It seizes as you stir; keep going and it loosens.

5 min 320 kcal
Baked rice pudding

Baked rice pudding

That mottled skin is Maillard, and it forms in the last ten minutes under the grill.

60 min 310 kcal
Pasta with tomato paste

Pasta with tomato paste

There is no sauce until the paste has been fried: raw paste stays sour and metallic.

20 min 420 kcal
Çılbır

Çılbır

Poached eggs on garlicky yoghurt, finished with butter sizzled with chilli. Three temperatures stacked: warm yoghurt, running yolk, scalding fat.

15 min 0 kcal
Eggs with sucuk

Eggs with sucuk

Crack the eggs before the sucuk has released its fat and you get dry sausage and lean eggs. The order is not a preference, it is the recipe.

12 min 0 kcal
Eggs with pastırma

Eggs with pastırma

Pastırma is warmed rather than cooked. More than thirty seconds in the pan and the fenugreek crust turns bitter while the meat turns to leather.

10 min 0 kcal
Kaygana

Kaygana

The Black Sea’s herb omelette, bound with flour. The flour holds the egg into a sheet that folds instead of breaking.

15 min 0 kcal
Cheese omelette

Cheese omelette

The colour of an omelette is a choice: pale means a low flame and brown means a high one, and the second is an accident.

8 min 0 kcal
Mıhlama

Mıhlama

Cornmeal, butter and a cheese that stretches. The stretch is not a knack but a temperature: past 70 °C it stops stretching and splits.

20 min 0 kcal
Eggy bread

Eggy bread

The best use there is for stale bread. Fresh bread is no good here — it collapses before it has absorbed anything.

13 min 0 kcal
Porridge

Porridge

Five minutes, of which the first one decides everything: the oats go into cold liquid, never into boiling.

10 min 0 kcal
Menemen

Menemen

Pepper, tomato and egg. Know the order and the heat and it takes fifteen minutes; miss them and you get a watery omelette.

15 min 290 kcal
Fried eggs in butter

Fried eggs in butter

Eight minutes and one number: the butter must not pass 150 °C.

8 min 220 kcal
Spinach and eggs

Spinach and eggs

Crack the eggs before the spinach has given up its water and a green puddle collects on the plate.

15 min 240 kcal
Crêpes

Crêpes

Flour, egg, milk. The one condition for crêpes that do not tear is half an hour of rest.

55 min 260 kcal
Red lentil soup

Red lentil soup

Turkey’s default soup. Four ingredients, thirty-five minutes and one rule: the lemon is squeezed at the table.

35 min 210 kcal
Ezogelin soup

Ezogelin soup

The lentil soup’s cousin, with bulgur, tomato paste and mint. The difference is one step: the paste is fried in the fat.

40 min 0 kcal
Yoghurt and rice soup

Yoghurt and rice soup

Every yoghurt soup has the same single problem: splitting. The answer is not the flour and the egg but the way the temperature is raised.

35 min 0 kcal
Tarhana soup

Tarhana soup

A yoghurt-and-vegetable mixture fermented through a summer, dried and powdered. Ten minutes to a soup — at the end of a year’s work.

30 min 0 kcal
Tomato soup

Tomato soup

The taste of this soup is the taste of the tomato, which means a bad tomato cannot make a good one. In winter use paste and wait for the season.

30 min 0 kcal
Mushroom soup

Mushroom soup

Mushrooms taste of something once they have browned. Dropped straight into water they give a soup colour and no flavour.

35 min 0 kcal
Chicken broth soup

Chicken broth soup

What makes a broth clear is not the ingredients but the temperature: a pan that passes 95 °C guarantees a cloudy one.

80 min 0 kcal
Wedding soup

Wedding soup

Lamb broth, a liaison, and red pepper butter over the top: yayla soup’s richer cousin, built on stock instead of water.

90 min 0 kcal
Vegetable soup

Vegetable soup

Throwing everything in at once is easy and wrong. These vegetables differ twofold in cooking time, and knowing the order is the only skill involved.

45 min 0 kcal
Broccoli soup

Broccoli soup

One rule for keeping it green: no lid, and not a minute over eight.

30 min 0 kcal
Pumpkin soup

Pumpkin soup

Boiled pumpkin gives a watery, flat soup. Roasted pumpkin is the same vegetable and a completely different soup.

60 min 0 kcal
Vermicelli soup

Vermicelli soup

A childhood soup and a fifteen-minute rescue. Toasting the vermicelli is the whole recipe.

15 min 0 kcal
Celeriac soup

Celeriac soup

Celeriac starts browning the moment it is cut. Dropping it into acidulated water is a chemical intervention rather than a cosmetic one.

40 min 0 kcal
Fish soup

Fish soup

A fish stock is made in twenty minutes and ruined in twenty-five. Unlike meat stock, long cooking here does damage.

40 min 0 kcal
Tutmaç soup

Tutmaç soup

Yoghurt, chickpeas and noodles cut into squares: a soup a thousand years old, named in Kaşgarlı Mahmud’s dictionary.

40 min 0 kcal
Flour soup

Flour soup

Three ingredients — flour, butter, water — and all of the flavour is in how long the flour is toasted.

20 min 0 kcal
Analı kızlı

Analı kızlı

The big stuffed dumplings are the mothers, the small plain ones the daughters. Both are bulgur, both cook in the same pan.

75 min 0 kcal
Onion soup

Onion soup

Forty minutes of frying onions sounds long. Stop at thirty and the soup comes out sharp instead of sweet: the time is the recipe.

65 min 0 kcal
Cold yoghurt soup

Cold yoghurt soup

The one Turkish soup drunk cold. Nothing can split because nothing is heated — but the chickpeas and wheat have to be cooked first.

75 min 0 kcal
Tripe soup

Tripe soup

Three hours of simmering and a liaison. What decides the smell is not the recipe but how well the tripe was cleaned.

210 min 0 kcal
Ali Nazik

Ali Nazik

The Gaziantep classic: charred aubergine crushed with garlicky yoghurt under sautéed lamb. Everything rests on properly charring the aubergine — made with oven-roasted aubergine, this is simply not the dish.

55 min 520 kcal
Pan-fried meatballs

Pan-fried meatballs

A meatball holds together because it rested, not because of what went into it. Kneaded mince does not meet the pan without half an hour in the fridge.

60 min 0 kcal
İzmir meatballs

İzmir meatballs

Searing the meatballs and then baking them in sauce is two dishes in one: the crust stays outside while the inside drinks the sauce.

100 min 0 kcal
Taş kebabı

Taş kebabı

It is called a kebab and there is no fire in it: two hours in a covered pan in its own juice. Collagen becoming gelatin asks for nothing but time.

135 min 0 kcal
Slow-roast lamb shank

Slow-roast lamb shank

Three hours at 150 °C. There is no way to shorten it: collagen becomes gelatin with time rather than with temperature.

225 min 0 kcal
Karnıyarık

Karnıyarık

The one thing that stops an aubergine drinking oil is a soak in salted water: cells full of water leave no room for fat.

75 min 0 kcal
Musakka

Musakka

Turkish musakka has no béchamel: aubergine, mince and tomato in one pan. Confusing it with the Greek version is a common mistake.

70 min 0 kcal
Saç kavurma

Saç kavurma

High heat, small pieces, an uncrowded pan. Miss any one of the three and it is not a sauté but a stew.

35 min 0 kcal
Kadınbudu köfte

Kadınbudu köfte

Half the mince is cooked and half is raw. The cooked half stops it collapsing and the raw half is what binds it.

75 min 0 kcal
Albanian liver

Albanian liver

Liver must not meet salt before the pan, and must meet flour a minute before it. Two rules, two minutes.

25 min 0 kcal
Lamb casserole

Lamb casserole

The meat has two hours and the vegetables have forty minutes. Put them in together and the vegetables vanish while the meat is still raw.

175 min 0 kcal
Roast beef

Roast beef

Not a dish to make without a thermometer. The answer to "how many minutes" depends on the temperature at the centre, not on the weight.

135 min 0 kcal
Beef sauté

Beef sauté

A meat dish finished in fifteen minutes, on one condition: the pan is genuinely hot. In a warm pan this recipe does not work.

30 min 0 kcal
İçli köfte

İçli köfte

Whether the shell thins without splitting depends on its temperature: cold bulgur cracks and warm bulgur stretches.

120 min 0 kcal
Çiğ köfte, without meat

Çiğ köfte, without meat

The name says raw, but the bulgur is not: bulgur is wheat that has already been boiled, and here it is only soaked.

85 min 0 kcal
Oven lamb tandır

Oven lamb tandır

Four hours at 140 °C, then fifteen minutes at 240. Without the second number the meat is tender and pale.

290 min 0 kcal
Pan-seared steak

Pan-seared steak

Thickness decides the cooking time, not weight. A 2 cm steak always takes the same time whatever it weighs.

60 min 0 kcal
Vine leaves stuffed with meat

Vine leaves stuffed with meat

Sarma holds together because the pan is packed, not because the roll is tight. Leave gaps and every one of them opens.

115 min 0 kcal
Hasanpaşa köfte

Hasanpaşa köfte

The purée on top is a lid rather than a decoration: in the oven it keeps the meat’s juice in.

105 min 0 kcal
Lamb and pea stew

Lamb and pea stew

The peas go in last. Boiled with the meat from the start they lose both their colour and their texture.

115 min 0 kcal
Chicken sauté

Chicken sauté

Chicken breast is done at 65 °C and dry at 72. Those seven degrees are the whole recipe.

30 min 0 kcal
Whole roast chicken

Whole roast chicken

The breast is ready at 65 °C and the leg at 75. Roasting a whole bird is entirely the business of hitting both at once.

115 min 0 kcal
Chicken shish

Chicken shish

A yoghurt marinade is a mechanism rather than a tradition: its calcium and lactic acid loosen the meat’s protein.

274 min 0 kcal
Chicken casserole

Chicken casserole

Made with thigh, and there is no alternative: breast certainly dries over forty minutes in an oven.

80 min 0 kcal
Chicken pilaf

Chicken pilaf

When the water for the rice is the water the chicken cooked in, the dish becomes something else. Made with plain water, the same recipe is only rice.

85 min 0 kcal
Chicken schnitzel

Chicken schnitzel

Beating the meat thin is a requirement rather than a shortcut: a 1 cm breast cannot cook before the coating burns.

32 min 0 kcal
Oven chicken wings

Oven chicken wings

Crisp wings without a fryer are possible, on one condition: a night uncovered in the fridge to dry the skin.

780 min 0 kcal
Poached chicken

Poached chicken

There is one reason poached chicken comes out dry: the water was boiling. Poached at 80 °C it never does.

55 min 0 kcal
Home-made chicken nuggets

Home-made chicken nuggets

Half the meat in a shop nugget is skin, cartilage and water. At home you know what is in it, and the difference shows up in the salt.

73 min 0 kcal
Chicken curry

Chicken curry

Frying the spices in fat is not a step but half the recipe: their aromas dissolve in oil and not in water.

60 min 0 kcal
Baked sea bass

Baked sea bass

A whole fish is more forgiving than a fillet: the bones and skin slow the heat and the flesh cooks without drying.

45 min 0 kcal
Fried anchovies

Fried anchovies

Cornmeal is not flour: its coarse grains fry into a glassy crust, and the anchovy steams inside it.

30 min 0 kcal
Steamed fish

Steamed fish

In a buğulama the fish never touches water: it cooks in the steam the vegetables give off and never sees 100 °C.

40 min 0 kcal
Grilled sea bream

Grilled sea bream

Fish sticks to a grill because of its skin, not the bars: wet skin welds and dry skin releases in thirty seconds.

32 min 0 kcal
Fish sandwich

Fish sandwich

Mackerel is an oily fish, and the whole recipe is about balancing that fat: onion, sumac, lemon.

25 min 0 kcal
Prawn casserole

Prawn casserole

The prawns go in for the last four minutes. Cooked with the sauce from the start they turn to rubber, and there is no way back.

35 min 0 kcal
Fried squid

Fried squid

Squid has two cooking times and nothing between them: under two minutes or over thirty.

28 min 0 kcal
Baked salmon

Baked salmon

The white stuff on baked salmon is a sign of too much heat rather than of freshness. Pulled at 52 °C it never appears.

32 min 0 kcal
İmam bayıldı

İmam bayıldı

Karnıyarık’s sibling: no meat, olive oil, eaten cold. The quantity of onion is not excessive — this is a dish about onion.

200 min 0 kcal
Courgette fritters

Courgette fritters

A mücver made without squeezing the courgette falls apart. One courgette gives up half a glass of water, and with that water in the batter nothing binds.

40 min 0 kcal
Tray-roasted vegetables

Tray-roasted vegetables

A vegetable that does not fit on the tray does not roast, it steams. Using two trays instead of one is the only trick in this recipe.

60 min 0 kcal
Spinach with rice

Spinach with rice

A kilo of spinach cooks down to a handful, which is why the size of the pan is part of the recipe.

60 min 0 kcal
Roasted cauliflower

Roasted cauliflower

Boiled, cauliflower’s sulphur smell goes into the water; roasted, the same compounds turn into a toasted flavour.

40 min 0 kcal
Okra in olive oil

Okra in olive oil

Okra goes slimy for one reason: it was cut. Cooked without breaching the pod, it does not go slimy at all.

115 min 0 kcal
Leeks in olive oil

Leeks in olive oil

Leek grit hides between the layers and rinsing does not reach it: it has to be cut first and soaked after.

100 min 0 kcal
Türlü

Türlü

The name means "all sorts" and the recipe means it: whatever is in the house goes in. The one rule is the order they cook in.

90 min 0 kcal
Fried courgette

Fried courgette

Salt the slices and wait twenty minutes: the water that comes out is the only reason a fried slice spits and goes soft.

40 min 0 kcal
Fried aubergine

Fried aubergine

An aubergine can take up a third of its own weight in oil. Salted water halves that.

50 min 0 kcal
Sautéed mushrooms

Sautéed mushrooms

Mushrooms are wiped, not washed. And the salt goes in last: early salt draws their water out and makes browning impossible.

22 min 0 kcal
Potato and mince bake

Potato and mince bake

Without a pre-cook the potato slices boil rather than brown over forty minutes in the oven.

80 min 0 kcal
Vegetable gratin

Vegetable gratin

A lump-free béchamel is not a knack but a question of temperature difference: hot milk into hot roux, or cold into cold.

75 min 0 kcal
Garlic-sautéed broccoli

Garlic-sautéed broccoli

The broccoli is blanched two minutes and dropped into iced water. That shock locks the green in, and the sauté cannot take it back out.

20 min 0 kcal
Oven potato wedges

Oven potato wedges

The secret of a crisp wedge is not in the oven but before it: a boil and a shake. Without roughening the surface there is no crust.

60 min 0 kcal
Chickpea stew

Chickpea stew

Dried chickpeas, tomato paste and olive oil — and a pinch of bicarbonate that halves the cooking time.

60 min 330 kcal
White beans

White beans

Beans stay hard for almost always the same reason: the tomato paste went in early. Acid locks the pectin in the skin.

95 min 0 kcal
Borlotti bean pilaki

Borlotti bean pilaki

A pilaki is eaten cold, and that is why there is sugar in it: perception of sweetness drops as food cools, so what tastes right hot tastes flat cold.

255 min 0 kcal
White bean salad

White bean salad

The dressing goes on while the beans are HOT. A cold bean takes nothing up; a hot one draws the dressing into its starch.

100 min 0 kcal
Hummus

Hummus

Smooth hummus is not a question of the blender but of the skins: no machine makes it velvety while they are still on.

65 min 0 kcal
Broad bean purée

Broad bean purée

Broad beans are not boiled in their skins: the skin cooks but never chews, and the purée comes out gritty.

260 min 0 kcal
Red lentil patties

Red lentil patties

The bulgur goes onto the lentils while they are HOT, under a lid. Added to cold lentils it never swells and the patty falls apart.

80 min 0 kcal
Black-eyed pea salad

Black-eyed pea salad

The one dried pulse that needs no soak: its skin is thin and it softens in twenty-five minutes.

60 min 0 kcal
Falafel

Falafel

The chickpeas are never boiled, only soaked. Falafel made with cooked chickpeas disintegrates in the oil, and nothing rescues it.

105 min 0 kcal
Green lentil stew

Green lentil stew

A green lentil keeps its skin and holds its shape; a red one is already skinned and split, so it collapses. The same plant, two different dishes.

65 min 380 kcal
Roasted chickpeas

Roasted chickpeas

The crunch is drying, not browning: while there is free water on the surface the chickpea stays soft. The spices wait until the end, because at 200 °C they burn.

105 min 0 kcal
Red lentil dal

Red lentil dal

Twenty minutes of boiling lentils tastes of very little; almost all of the flavour is made in the last forty-five seconds, in hot fat.

37 min 0 kcal
Spinach with chickpeas

Spinach with chickpeas

Under a lid, spinach turns olive-drab in its own acid. With the lid off, the colour and the taste both stay where they were.

65 min 0 kcal
Black-eyed pea stew

Black-eyed pea stew

The one common dried pulse that needs no soaking: its coat is thin and permeable, so it goes from dry seed to tender in twenty-five minutes.

50 min 0 kcal
White bean patties

White bean patties

There is no protein network here to bind the patty. What takes its place is gelatinised starch, which firms as it cools: the fridge is what holds these together.

130 min 0 kcal
Green lentil salad

Green lentil salad

A lentil goes on cooking in its own heat for three or four minutes after the pan comes off. The eighteen minutes in this recipe already has those minutes counted in.

53 min 0 kcal
Buttered pilaf

Buttered pilaf

Separate grains are not a recipe but two steps: rinse it, and leave the lid alone.

35 min 350 kcal
İç pilav

İç pilav

Liver cooked inside the rice goes tough. Seared separately and folded in at the end, it stays tender.

55 min 0 kcal
Bulgur pilaf

Bulgur pilaf

Bulgur does not cook, it takes up water. It is wheat that has already been boiled, so what matters is not the time on the flame but the time under the lid.

37 min 0 kcal
Bulgur pilaf with lentils

Bulgur pilaf with lentils

Two grains, two rules: the lentils must boil, the bulgur only absorbs. Put them in together and one collapses while the other stays hard.

60 min 0 kcal
Tomato bulgur pilaf

Tomato bulgur pilaf

The acid in tomato slows how fast bulgur takes up water. The answer is not more water but putting the tomato in after the bulgur has swollen.

41 min 0 kcal
Kısır

Kısır

It never meets a flame: fine bulgur swells by itself in boiling water. The pomegranate molasses and lemon go in after the swelling is over.

55 min 0 kcal
Tabbouleh

Tabbouleh

Tabbouleh is not a bulgur salad but a parsley salad: the bulgur is under a tenth of the whole. And what swells it is not water but the juice of the tomato.

50 min 0 kcal
Orzo pilaf

Orzo pilaf

Orzo is pasta rather than rice: its starch behaves differently, and cooked without toasting it glues itself together in the pan.

28 min 0 kcal