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Home · Recipes · Aşure, Noah’s pudding
Muharram For sharing Vegan

Aşure, Noah’s pudding

Wheat, chickpeas, beans and dried fruit in one pan. The sugar goes in only once the pulses are soft; added earlier, they never soften.

Aşure, Noah’s pudding

Desserts · Turkish · Weekend batch · For guests · Vegan · Budget

360 minTime
373Kcal / serving
4478Total kcal
Preparation
30 min
Cooking
150 min
Resting
180 min
Difficulty
Practised hand
Cost
Cheap
Season
All year
Where this dish comes from

Aşure belongs to the tenth day of Muharram, the first month of the Hijri calendar. The story told in Anatolia is that when Noah’s ark came to rest, the last provisions on board were cooked together in one pot, which is why the dessert is built from so many things. Aşure is cooked in big pans and carried door to door to the neighbours; which bowl came from whose house is talked over at the table. The recipe changes from kitchen to kitchen; the one here is a plain version scaled for a family pan.

Method

Before the heat goes on
  • Soak the wheat, the chickpeas and the beans overnight in separate bowls of plenty of water; the soak is not included in the total time.
  • Chop the dried apricots and figs to the size of a raisin.

You will need: A large heavy-based pan, at least 5 litres · Two small pans for the pulses · Bowls

  1. Drain the soaked wheat, bring it to the boil in the big pan with the water and simmer with the lid ajar for 90 minutes to two hours, topping up with hot water if it runs low.

    Look for The grains should have split open, and the water should be cloudy and slightly thick.

    Why The body of aşure forms when the wheat grains split and release their starch into the water, which is why no extra starch is added. Wheat starch begins to gel at 52–64 °C, but water takes hours to reach the inside of a hulled grain.

    Starch gelatinised The granules soaked up water, swelled and burst into a network. It has thickened, and it will firm further as it cools. no way back

    A gluten web is forming Gliadin and glutenin hydrated into an elastic net. This is what will hold the gas. no way back

  2. Meanwhile boil the chickpeas and the beans separately in plain water until soft enough to crush between two fingers, 40 to 60 minutes, and drain them.

    Look for Chickpeas and beans should crush between two fingers with no resistance.

    Why The pulses cook separately because their times differ from the wheat’s and from each other’s, and their cooking water is murky and tastes of beans.

    Starch gelatinised The granules soaked up water, swelled and burst into a network. It has thickened, and it will firm further as it cools. no way back

    A gluten web is forming Gliadin and glutenin hydrated into an elastic net. This is what will hold the gas. no way back

  3. Add the cooked chickpeas and beans, the dried fruit and the sugar to the wheat and cook 25 to 30 minutes more, stirring often.

    Look for The aşure should fall slowly from the spoon and not be catching on the base.

    Why Sugar slows the breakdown of pectin in the pulses’ skins; a chickpea that meets sugar before it is soft stays hard for hours. That is why the sugar goes in only once everything is tender. The dried fruit plumps up in this time.
    If it went wrong

    If it has started catching, stop stirring and move the top to a clean pan without scraping. If it is too thick, add hot water: aşure firms markedly as it cools, and looking a little loose while hot is right.

    Starch gelatinised The granules soaked up water, swelled and burst into a network. It has thickened, and it will firm further as it cools. no way back

    A gluten web is forming Gliadin and glutenin hydrated into an elastic net. This is what will hold the gas. no way back

  4. Share it into bowls and leave three hours once cool; finish with walnuts, hazelnuts, pomegranate and cinnamon as you serve.

    Look for Cold aşure should hold its shape in the bowl with no water pooling on top.

    Why The wheat starch sets as it cools and the aşure firms enough to cut with a spoon. The topping goes on at the last moment so the nuts do not draw moisture and soften.

    A gluten web is forming Gliadin and glutenin hydrated into an elastic net. This is what will hold the gas. no way back

What the model could follow

This recipe was run through the engine step by step — what goes in when, and at what temperature and for how long. The reactions above come from that run.

peak 101 °C · 363 minutes · engine 1.0.0 · confidence low

After the heat goes off

Serving

Cold or at room temperature, in bowls, with walnuts, hazelnuts, pomegranate and cinnamon. For bowls going to the neighbours, add the topping just before covering.

Keeping · 4 days

Four days in the fridge, covered and without the topping.

Cooling and reheating

It is not reheated; it is eaten cold.

Freezes

Without the topping it freezes two months in a sealed box; it weeps a little on thawing and comes back together with a stir.

What is left

Leftover aşure is good stirred into yoghurt for breakfast.

For a child

The soft grains and pulses suit a child from twelve months. Whole chickpeas and nuts are a choking risk for a small child: crush the chickpeas in their share and leave off the nuts and pomegranate.

Where to go from here
Taste profile

What it tastes like

The axes that define this recipe: sweet 43.

  1. Sweet 43
  2. Salty 2
  3. Sour 6
  4. Bitter 10
  5. Umami 7
  6. Heat 1
  7. Richness 16
  8. Aroma 19

This profile is computed rather than measured: the role-weighted average of its ingredients’ taste vectors, shifted by what the cooking does. The thin line is the database average on that axis.