Green beans in olive oil

Method

1. Sweat the onion in the olive oil over a low flame until translucent, with no colour.

   Why Browning is not wanted here. Past 140 °C the onion starts to Maillard and the dish becomes something else entirely.

   Starch gelatinised The granules soaked up water, swelled and burst into a network. It has thickened, and it will firm further as it cools. no way back

   If you want a crust, do not stay under 140 °C. Food cooks at this heat but never colours.

2. Add the beans, cover, and give them ten minutes to release their own water. Add none.

   Why Beans are 90% water. Under a lid that water evaporates, condenses and becomes the cooking liquid; anything added from outside only dilutes the flavour.

   Starch gelatinised The granules soaked up water, swelled and burst into a network. It has thickened, and it will firm further as it cools. no way back

3. Add the tomato, sugar and salt, cover and cook gently for 30–35 minutes.

   Why The sugar is not there to sweeten but to balance the tomato’s acid. A teaspoon takes the edge off without making anything sweet.

   Starch gelatinised The granules soaked up water, swelled and burst into a network. It has thickened, and it will firm further as it cools. no way back

   Salt · 0.52% Low. Everything reads flat and nothing steps forward.

4. Take it off the heat, leave the lid off and let it cool to room temperature. Do not serve it hot.

   Why As it cools the olive oil partly sets and coats the vegetables; only then does the texture come together. These dishes finish their flavour cold.

   Salt · 0.52% Low. Everything reads flat and nothing steps forward.