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Small meatballs in yoghurt
Mains · Gaziantep

Small meatballs in yoghurt

Tiny bulgur-cased köfte cooked with chickpeas in a yoghurt broth. Gaziantep sources insist it is not yuvalama: yuvalama’s balls are rice flour, ufak köfte’s are bulgur.

The mechanism that defines it

Bulgur starch has a coarser particle size than rice flour and releases starch more slowly, which is why the broth here stays clearer than yuvalama’s.

Ingredients

What it is made of

Yo Yoghurt Yoghurt pH 4.4 · splits above 85 °C Dairy: it brings creaminess, protein and calcium. Temper it with a few spoons of the hot liquid before it goes in; added straight, it splits. Ck Chickpea Chickpea Protein 19% · skin dissolves in alkaline water Gives body: the bulk of the plate and its starch. A pinch of soda in the soaking water: the alkaline bath dissolves the skins and nearly halves the cooking time. Bu Bulgur Bulgur Pre-cooked · steeps in 12 min Gives body: the bulk of the plate and its starch. It steeps rather than cooks: pour boiling water over, cover, and it is done in twenty minutes. Eg Egg Egg White 62 °C · yolk 65 °C Gives body: the bulk of the plate and its starch. Crack it on a flat surface, not the rim of the bowl: a sharp edge drives shell into the egg. Fl Flour Flour Protein 10–12% · builds gluten Binds: it builds the structure and holds the water. Sifting does not remove lumps, it aerates: the same weight takes more space. Weigh it, never scoop it. Bt Butter Butter Smoke point 150 °C · milk solids burn Fat: it carries the aroma and softens the texture. Add a spoon of neutral oil alongside it: the mix survives a higher temperature before the solids burn. Mi Mint Mint Menthol is volatile · add off the heat Spice: it adds aroma and edge. Fresh mint goes in off the heat; dried mint is bloomed in fat. They are not the same job. Sa2 Salt Salt 0.8–1.5% of the weight of the food Seasoning: it sets the perception and balances the salt. 0.8–1.5% of the weight of the food. Coarse and fine salt do not weigh the same by the spoon, so weigh it.
Taste profile

What it tastes like

No axis sits clearly above the average: a balanced dish without a sharp character.

  1. Sweet 11
  2. Salty 11
  3. Sour 7
  4. Bitter 8
  5. Umami 16
  6. Heat 0
  7. Richness 24
  8. Aroma 14

This profile is computed rather than measured: the role-weighted average of its ingredients’ taste vectors, shifted by what the cooking does. The thin line is the database average on that axis.

The method

How it is made

6 servings 2 hours
  1. Swell fine bulgur in hot water and knead it with mince into a workable paste.

  2. Roll chickpea-sized köfte, filling each with mince and closing it.

  3. Cook them with the boiled chickpeas in the yoghurt broth for fifteen minutes.

  4. Temper the yoghurt with flour and thicken it below the boil.

  5. Finish with dried mint.

History

Where it comes from

A record of its own in the Gaziantep kitchen.